The design of this small piece of Alençon lace indicates that it probably dates from about 1760–70. This style of needle lace takes its name from the town of Alençon in Normandy which was a centre of the French needle lace industry in the eighteenth century. This edging would have been gathered and used as dress decoration probably with matching wider edgings and sleeve ruffles. Johann Zoffany’s portrait of Queen Charlotte at the Holburne Museum in Bath, England shows just how extravagantly lace was used on fasionable costume at this time.
The lace above is at actual size, but if you click on the thumbnails below details at 16x magnification will appear in a separate window. Passing the mouse over a thumbnail will show you its position in the lace. (On an iPad the detail will appear in a new tab, and you will see the position when you close this.)
1. Alençon mesh ground worked at right-angles to the length of the lace. That makes sense because it means shorter rows. The twisted stitches are worked in one direction only with a whipped return thread.
2. Corded stitch for the solid areas with raised, closely buttonholed outlines.
3. The filling with groups of tiny buttonholed couronnes and bars with open stitches at each side.
4. The tightly buttonholed edge with picots